Saturday, May 12, 2007

Florence Day 1 and 2 (5/9-10/2007)

Florence – 1

Arrived in Florence around 5:45 PM and walked from Santa Maria Novella station to the B&B located on Via Calimaruzza 4 near the Uffizi. The walk took about 15-20 minutes down very crowded sidewalks. One thing we’ve noticed in Italy is how pedestrians will think of nothing to walk in front of a car at an intersection – there must be an some code that people have the right of way that we weren’t aware of – as without fail, the cars stopped every time and allowed people to cross. However, the cars don’t stop if you don’t make the move to cross. Similarly, we’ve noticed that people in Europe are pushy and have no patience or courtesy with lines. They will move around you at any opportunity to advance their own position. When standing at a counter at an espresso bar, if you don’t speak up, someone else will. There is no sense of order or recognition of who’s next. We’re leaving Venice now, and I found this to be true more so there than in Florence – Florence was definitely a bit more mellow about it – kind of like the difference between New York and Chicago. Anyways… back to Florence…

Our B&B, Olaga’s house, was interesting – and a great place to stay.



The owner, Roberto is very personable and will chat you up for as long as you will let him.



We buzzed the door and entered a baren foyer lighted only by the light of the door – just enough to see the stairs in the far corner. Once the door closed, it was too dark to see. Feeling around blindly, we found the stairs and started to climb one slow step at a time (with our 45 lb packs on our backs). 79 steep steps later, we reach the Olga’s house door on the 3rd level (technically, the 4th floor as in Europe, the first floor doesn’t have a number so the second floor is called the first).

Roberto met us at the entrance to give us the key and his suggestions for places to eat pizza and have dinner around town. The room was pretty basic – and modern, but very comfortable considering it seems like everything in Italian cities is all crammed in as tight as can be.



We used our Zagat guide to find a place to eat – and decided on Cantenetta Antinori Wine Bar, which got at 24 food rating.





We had an amazing antipasti of porcini mushrooms and artichoke hearts drizzled with olive oil. The primi piatti was tagliatelle with beef – and it was incredible. The pasta was freshly made and perfectly cooked. Secondi Piatti for me was prime rib – cooked just barely medium rare in the center - and was the most flavorful steak I’ve had at a restaurant in a long while. Candice had sliced chicken breast over a bed of arugula and topped with a creamy parsley sauce. The wine was a bottle of Marchese Antinori Chianti Classiclo Riserva 2001 (only 29 Euro) and was a perfect match for the meal. Desert escapes me now, but our entire dining experience was a great memory. Perfectly relaxing – which was much needed after all the activity in Rome. The restaurant had two levels of seating – we were on the lower, main level. From what we could tell, the patrons were mostly Italian – maybe some other nationalities, but not American.

A slow walk home past the Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica brought us to the end of the day.

Day 2

The highlight of the morning – Academia and The David. The museum was about a 15 minute walk from Olga’s – past the Duomo and up a crowded and tight street called Via Ricasoli. Most of the time, the street is filled with people leisurely strolling one way or another or looking at things for sale laid out on the side walk or in little booths. Occasionally, a car would attempt to make it’s way through, and it was like parting the Red Sea – but slowly. We followed Rick Steve’s advice and made a reservation several weeks in advance. Good thing we did, as the line for people without reservations was enormous – and who knows how much time they would stand in it under the sun and on the pavement – with no place to sit. When we made the reservation, they instructed us to be there 10 minutes ahead of time. We got there about 8 minutes prior, and for a fleeting moment, I thought they would give up our place and make us stand in line. Luckily, that wasn’t the case!

No pictures inside means no pictures of the actual David (no pho-to, no pho-to!). Below is a picture from a replica, standing in the Piazza della Signoria near Olga’s:



This copy doesn’t do the original justice. In Accademia, The David is about 14 feet tall and stands alone. When you enter the museum, you are brought into a room with several other statues and paintings – which are interesting and wonderful in their own way. You go through a doorway which leads to a long hallway with more paintings on either side, but your attention is immediately drawn to the amazing statue at the end of the hallway. Standing alone under a 30 foot arch, is The David. People are massed around under it – staring up at the amazing detail. Not being a student of the arts, beforehand I knew it was a famous statue, but had no appreciation for difference between it and any other famous statue. What could be so special – it’s just a person carved in marble, right? How wrong I was! The quality is apparent on first glance. The detail is perfect. Veins pop out of his hands. The muscles of the legs, abs, arms and neck are just right. The expression in the face is believable – as it is said this is the moment just before David was to take on Goliath – rock in hand and sling around his shoulder.

There were other paintings and statues in the museum, but – really – I can’t differentiate them – especially since the star of the day soaks up so much attention.

Time for lunch – nice little place down the street and over a block called Bar Ginori, where we had sandwiches, cappuccino and an espresso dopio.

On to the Medici e Riccardi Palace – just around the corner. The Medici’s were the most influential family for several generations during the renaissance – and in effect ran Florence. They were not nobility though – all of their riches were self made – in trade and banking, I think.



Candice is dancing in the main hall of the palace - which had an amazing mural or fresco on the ceiling and wonderfully painted mirrors on the wall opposite the windows - which were hidden by some big ugly drapes!

The palace is a well-fortified mansion in the middle of busy Florence – where the lower walls were solid stone, giving the feeling of impregnability. Inside held a inner courtyards and access to the upper levels. Michalangelo lived here as a g here as a guest of the Medici’s and studied his craft as a teenager and throughout his early career. Frankly, it was a little dissapointing as the Florentine government uses part of the palace so we were not allowed in many rooms.

After the palace, we found some gelato and wandered around the neighborhood – which was the home of the sprawling San Lorenzo Market – vendors selling everything from leather bags and goods to T-shirts to linen shirts and dresses to cheap souvenirs.



Wandering through the market led us to our next destination, the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Cappelle di Medici. Neither of which allows pictures inside – but from the outside, here’s the Basilica:



And in the back, the entrance to the Cappelle:



The Cappelle di Medici was special because in it was a room entirely designed by Michelangelo and contained crypts of 4 Medici’s – three of which Michelangelo knew personally. He wasn’t able to finish the room, as he died as he was almost complete. We could have done without the basillica - but we mistakenly entered it first and had already paid before realizing we were not exactly where we wanted to be. Funny - we actually walked past the back entrance and thought it was too quiet and not enough people interested for there to be some famous Michelangelo sculptures inside. Now we know.

Next was the Babistry and Giotto’s tower in front of the Duomo.



The Babtistry, on the left above, is a one room building with eight sides – the eighth side representing the neverending day of life after death. The dome inside is the thing to look at (I was just happy to be able to sit down in a cool dark place after the super hot day at the market!):



and the doors outside:



We climbed Giotto’s Tower – all 414 steps up this monster:



so that we could get this view:


It was actually worth the climb!

Dinner was at Ristarante Natolino – nothing special here – we chose it because our first choice was booked (more on that later). I had Veal with a tuna sauce – which was served cold and Candice had something she can’t remember at this point. Wine was Il Grigio de San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 – very good.



We did meet a nice couple from France – Philippe and Elisabette – nice conversation while we waited for our table. The service was pretty good as the owner gave us Proseco and antipasti while we waited for free and the waitress was good – helped with the wine selection and made a good choice. She was really happy with the 10% tip we gave her – must not happen often.

Florence Day 3 up next…

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